Month: November 2013

Question of the Month

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I am using Rogaine for my hair loss, but I noticed that it makes my hair quite dry and keeps stripping my hair colour. What can I do?

 

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This is a common question that is asked  by many many women who have Female Pattern Hair Loss and are using topical 5% Minoxidil (whether Rogaine brand or otherwise). It’s a catch 22 situation. On the one hand, it is helping keep or grow their hair but, on the other, it is wreaking havoc on the hair itself.

The solution more than the foam is the usual culprit. It contains a high concentration of (denatured) alcohol in which the minoxidil is dissolved. Alcohol, is notorious for drying out skin and hair. It does  so, because it is a small volatile molecule. This aids in rapid drying of the product, but because alcohol can dissolve natural oils, it can take with it much needed oils when it evaporates from the scalp and hair. The alcohol can also dissolve the hair dye, thus making the colour disappear rather quickly, much to everyone’s annoyance.

So what can be done?

  • Use the Foam preparation. It doesn’t  have  denatured alcohol present in the ingredients. It is less likely to dry out the hair.
  • Use a Temporary Colour. These include hair rinses, mascaras, colour mousses, crayons or sprays. These will coat the hair shaft and will not penetrate. They will last up to 3 days or longer depending on how often you wash your hair. This will help to extend your hair colour.
  • Use Sulphate Free shampoos. These are the new “it” products in the cosmetic industry. They are less stripping than the regular shampoos. They will make your hair clean but not squeaky clean thus reducing the any contribution from the  shampoo stripping the hair of the hair dye.
  • Use Deep Treatments.  Rinse out conditioners do not deposit enough replacement oils, fatty acids, proteins etc to decrease the effects of the dye on the hair. Deep treatments tend to be thicker, and are filled with potent ingredients. For dry coloured hair, they should be left on the hair for 30 minutes to an hour on a weekly basis or used every other week.

 

The Hair Shaft

The hair shaft is made of a hard protein called keratin. This is the same keratin that comprises skin and nails. The hair shaft has three major components: Cuticle, Cortex and Medulla. It tends to remain uniform in size whilst in its growth phase. The width and shape of the hair shaft is determined by the hair follicle.

The Cuticle

The cuticle is the outermost layer and is composed of several layers of cells, (5-10), arranged in a pattern similar to shingles on a roof. The free edge of the cuticular cells, lie up and outward, with the free edge facing the direction of the tip of the hair shaft. The microstructure of the cuticle is shown below:

cuticleindetail

The Epicuticle

This is the outermost layer. It is a protein layer with an overlying lipid (fatty acid) layer.

The A Layer

This is proteinaceous layer found at the outer part of each cell. It is compromised of a high percentage of cystine, > 30%. It is rather hardy and is highly resistant to chemical and mechanical attack. Supports the attachment of free fatty acids to the hair’s surface.

The Exocuticle

Closely abuts the A layer, and forms approximately 55% of the cuticle. Also comprised of a high amount of cystine. It is not as rigid as the A layer.

The Endocuticle

Comprised of cellular debris that is pushed to one side during the formation of the A Layer and the Exocuticule. It is softer than the other two layers, and easily swells with water. This therefore affects how the hair shaft responds in water.

The Cellular Membrane Complex

This is composed of lipids, primarily fatty acids: 18 methyl eicosanoic acid (18-MEA), palmitic and oleic acids. This layer determines the combing properties of hair in the wet and dry state. Older and damaged hair have decreased percentage of fatty acids.

The Epicuticle

This is thought to determine the surface properties of the hair.

 

The Cortex

The cortex forms the bulk of the hair shaft. The cells are long and elongated. They are fused tightly to each other. Each cell contains fine filaments called microfibrils. These microfibrils are  made of highly helical proteins giving the unique characteristic of alpha – keratin. The microfibrils are then grouped together  in larger bundles called macrofibrils. These bundles are packaged in a certain manner forming the  paracortex, orthocortex and mesocortex. The packaging of these fibrils help to determine the hair type.

hairshaftcortexarrangement

The Medulla

This structure is not always present. It is usually found in hair fibres of a larger width. The function of the medulla is unknown in humans. It contains a mixture of glycogen, melanosomes and air bubbles. The medulla tends to have a pattern: continuous or discontinuous.