Black Hair Growth Myths

Five Common Black Hair Growth Myths- Do you know of any more?

Black hair growth myths are so deeply entrenched that persons often find it impossible to believe that there is more to kinky/curly/coily hair than  what they have been told their entire lives. I didn’t want to discuss this as yet in my blog series as I am still compiling articles on hair in general. However, recently, I was told something so unbelievably stupid about natural Afro-textured hair that I figured that I needed to publish this sooner. Today’s blog will be about myths about African hair. I will deal with the totally absurd things I’ve heard about African hair another time.

Myth #1: Black Hair Doesn’t Grow

This myth is pervasive because the length that a lot of black women covet has been seemingly out of reach for them. This has been mistakenly attributed to an inability for the hair itself to grow, never mind that persons have to relax  or colour their NEW GROWTH every six weeks. The problem with black hair growth lies in the ease with which the hair breaks. LENGTH RETENTION is hard due to poor grooming practices i.e. daily flatiron or curl, abusive combing of the hair,  and not conditioning the hair enough. Once those problems have been addressed, persons will be surprised as to how much hair will remain on their head and how much longer it will get.

Myth #2: Natural hair is tough and unmanageable

And why not? After all, a lot of persons have memories of their hair actually breaking combs! Telling someone in Jamaica that ,”Your hair favour coir*,” conjures up images of an unruly dry mass that is beyond salvation. This is so far from the truth. Experimental data have conclusively shown that African hair is the most fragile compared to other racial hair types. Each bend in the hair is a potential point for breakage. It is the innate dryness of the hair that causes significant friction making it difficult to comb. Studies  also showed that wet combing the hair and using a leave-in-conditioner will make it much easier to comb and therefore manage. 


Myth #3: Natural hair is thick, plentiful and STRONG

Do not be fooled by the illusion of 3-D volume created by curls. Persons are often surprised by the reduction in volume they see when they straighten their hair. The density of hair on anyone’s scalp is genetically determined. Blacks in general have the least amount of hair on their heads compared to other races. Only natural red heads have the lowest density compared to persons of  African descent. Even the hair strands are not as thick as people think they are. Asians have the thickest strands, African hair is in the middle, while whites have finer hair.

It is the difficulty in combing natural hair that causes persons to assume the hair is strong. Heck, people think that the hair is so strong that it can stop the path of missiles! People, therefore, then do all sorts of crazy things like going platinum blonde in one sitting and then wonder why their hair breaks right down to their scalp simply because they thought their hair could take it? Studies have shown that African hair breaks at a lower applied force than European and Asian hair. It is not as hardy as it appears. Treat your hair delicately and it will thank you for it.


Myth #4: Wearing braids/weaves grows your hair

This is not entirely false. Wearing additional hair does decrease the amount of daily handling of the hair thus allowing the hair to retain length. However, too tight braiding that causes soreness to the scalp will result in hair pulled out directly from the root, and if the hair strand was weak and dry before braiding/weaving, the hair will dry out even more and break once the additional hair is installed. This is especially true if the type of hair used is ultra absorptive sucking all the oils and moisture away from your own strands of hair. So even though persons have experienced significant hair growth after having installed braids or weave, they still had to cut a lot of it off due to the poor condition the hair was found to be in. It is imperative that the hair is in excellent condition BEFORE installing the added hair. Ensure that you deep condition before installing, and continue to moisturise the hair under the wig, weave or braid extensions, otherwise the rest period would have been a wasted effort.


Myth #5 : Hair oils/pomades and “growth creams” will make your hair grow

For whatever reason, this myth cannot be banished to never neverland. There is always someone in the beauty supply store exclaiming how X product for their scalp grew their hair. Now there are some things that have been clinically proven to grow hair e.g. Minoxidil, however, not everything that is on the market has been definitively shown to grow hair. In any case, your hair will grow once you are properly nourished and are not experiencing some internal problem , such as Thyroid disease or Systemic Lupus, or some scalp disease such as Alopecia areata, Lichen Planopilaris or Traction Alopecia. Once you adopt a better hair care regimen, the length will be seen eventually.


*coir-fibre from the husk of the coconut mistakenly pronounced “kaya” in Jamaica.

About

Dr. Llorenia Muir-Green is a practising dermatologist in Jamaica. She has an avid interest in hair and scalp disorders.  She is a member of the Medical Association of Jamaica,  Dermatology Association of Jamaica and is an Associate Member of the Caribbean Dermatology Association. She was a recipient of the 2013 Fellowship in Hair and Scalp Disorders at the University of British Columbia.

Hair Texture- What contributes to it?

Hair texture has often been described by many scientific authors in terms of three racial types: African, Caucasian, and Asian. However, it has been noted that there is significant intra-racial variation, with scientists now suggesting that hair be described by its degree of curliness with a broad definition of straight, wavy and curly. In general, the degree of curliness correlates with the distribution of hair keratins and cell type within the hair fiber,  as well as with the number of mesocortical cells. The curlier the hair, the fewer mesocortical cells are present. See this past post on the distribution of cells affecting the hair texture:

http://askthehairdoc.com/the-hair-shaft/

Embarking on this mission, scientists collected hairs from almost 1500 subjects located in eighteen countries worldwide. Persons were not to have a perm, straightener, or relaxer in their hair. Hairs were taken from the vertex, nape, and temples. Four parameters were used to type the hairs, namely Curl Diameter, Curl index (ratio of stretched length of hair to length at rest), highest number of waves and the highest number of constrictions. Based on their findings, they devised a hair typing system as depicted in the figure below. The experiment was repeated on a larger scale thus validating the results.

 

Hair Texture Typing Photo Scale

hairtexture

Source: de la Mettrie R, Saint-Leger D, Loussouarn G et al. Shape variability and classification of human hair: A worldwide approach. Human Biology 2007; 79: 265-81.

Other genetic studies have been done showing why certain populations have specific hair types. East Asians were found to have the mutation in the gene for the  ectodysplasin A receptor (EDAR) and the FGFR2 gene polymorphisms. These two genes are associated with the thickness of hair. The positive selection in this group resulted in hair being thicker than all other races. In Europeans, variations of the gene coding for the Trichohyalin protein were found to be responsible for  the development of straight, wavy or curly hair, with Northern Europeans having the highest variation.

The Hair Doc

Dr. Llorenia Muir-Green is a practising dermatologist in Jamaica. She has an avid interest in hair and scalp disorders.  She is a member of the Medical Association of Jamaica,  Dermatology Association of Jamaica and is an Associate Member of the Caribbean Dermatology Association. She was a recipient of the 2013 Fellowship in Hair and Scalp Disorders at the University of British Columbia.

October’s QOM- Can Apple Cider Vinegar replace shampoo?

 

questiontext

Dear Hair Doctor: What is your medical opinion on replacing traditional shampoo with Apple Cider Vinegar? Can it really help with dandruff and itchy scalp? Are there any benefits for tightly coiled black hair?

 

answertext

 

I don’t think Apple Cider Vinegar is that useful as  a complete replacement for shampoo as it cannot effectively remove oils etc from your hair that well because of its chemical properties.   See this blog post from another scientist :

http://www.thenaturalhavenbloom.com/2014/07/can-you-wash-your-hair-with-baking-soda.html

Apple Cider Vinegar has been used traditionally as a final rinse to close the cuticle, make the hair shiny, and to remove any residual soap deposits from the hair. People used to wash their hair with soap (as well as with other naturally saponin rich plants like soapwort and aloe vera). Because Apple Cider Vinegar is acidic it helps to restore the pH of the scalp and hair, and in the process tackles excess flaking (dandruff). For highly textured hair, in women of African descent, it is quite useful as it helps to restore the pH which would be significantly changed once exposed to high pH shampoos and soaps. This renders this hair type rough and make it extremely unmanageable. Once the pH is restored the hair will be more likely to act better.

 

About 

Dr. Llorenia Muir-Green is a practising dermatologist in Jamaica. She has an avid interest in hair and scalp disorders.  She is a member of the Medical Association of Jamaica,  Dermatology Association of Jamaica and is an Associate Member of the Caribbean Dermatology Association. She was a recipient of the 2013 Fellowship in Hair and Scalp Disorders at the University of British Columbia.