What is Conditioner Washing?
For the past few years, Conditioner Washing or Co-Washing has been the buzz term on the internet. Its popularity has garnered the development of professional products such as Wen and even more notable brands like Pantene Pro V and L’Oreal following suit.
The concept was popularised by curly expert Lorraine Massey of Devachan fame. She explains the concept quite well in her book “Curly Girl”. Basically, it uses regular rinse out conditioners to use as your cleanser instead of regular shampoo. The result is much more moisturised hair for persons with wavy/curly/coily/kinky hair.
Is there any science to this?
Surprisingly, there is a science to it, though cosmetic scientists may question its merit. Conditioners are filled with positively charged surfactants (compounds which allow oils and water to mix). Surfactants of a different category, namely anionic surfactants, are used in shampoos. Examples of anionic surfactants include Sodium Lauryl sulphate and Ammonium lauryl sulphate. These are very effective in attracting not only the unwanted dirt, grime, and sweat from your hair but necessary sebum as well. So after attaching to the dirt in your hair, they, along with the dirt, are easily rinsed away when you apply water to your hair. They are excellent degreasers but can cause already dry hair types such as wavy/curly/coily/kinky hair to become excessively dry. Sometimes this dryness is not rectified with the most potent of deep conditioning treatments, (as I’ve personally experienced). In fact detergents for wool, silk and other delicate fabrics are formulated with gentler anionic and cationic surfactants. Imagine that? You treat your silk better than your own hair!
So, instead of using these “harsher shampoos” Lorainne Massey suggested using the regular rinse out conditioners. The theory is that these conditioners would have enough surfactants to cleanse the hair but because of their conditioning nature they would not be terribly drying to the hair itself. There are many who have converted to this method of cleansing the hair.
A similar concept is practised in Dermatology with patients with Atopic eczema and other such conditions. Persons with this type of eczema do not have a normal skin barrier and require soap substitutes. The use of regular soaps and Sodium lauryl sulphate cleansers are not recommended because they will excessively dry out the skin worsening the condition significantly. I liken coily/kinky/curly hair to this type of skin. Due to the shape of the hair shaft itself, these hair types are drier by nature. So, using regular shampoos with Sodium Lauryl/Laureth sulphates have been found to give a similar drying effect as experienced on eczematous skin.
So is it worth a try?
It is definitely worth a try. These are the steps to a successful Co-Wash, modified from “Curly Girl”:
1. Choose a suitable rinse out conditioner or thin consistency leave- in conditioner or a commercially available Co-wash. You can do a search online for conditioners people recommend.
2. Just like using a shampoo, rinse your hair first with water, then apply a good amount of conditioner to your scalp. Massage well and rinse.
3. Now you will focus on your hair itself. If necessary, section your hair. Apply a ping pong or golf-sized ball amount of your conditioner to each section of your hair. Yes you will need a lot of conditioner. The tighter your curl pattern, the more you will need. Apply some amount of friction, massaging into the hair itself. If possible, milk the conditioner on the hair shaft in a downward direction. Ensure to use your fingers to help finger comb and take out any tangles whilst doing this.
4. Rinse your hair well again. You can then towel dry your hair and apply a deep conditioner (if necessary) or a leave-in conditioner.
5. Give yourself some time to get used to the concept. You may find over time that your hair will be less dry and much more manageable.
There you have it! You’ve done your first co-wash. Give it a few more tries and come up with a verdict.
Here is another scientist’s experience with co-wash:
http://www.thenaturalhavenbloom.com/2014/02/does-co-washing-really-clean-your-hair.html
About
Dr. Llorenia Muir-Green is a practising dermatologist in Jamaica. She has an avid interest in hair and scalp disorders. She is a member of the Medical Association of Jamaica, Dermatology Association of Jamaica and is an Associate Member of the Caribbean Dermatology Association. She was a recipient of the 2013 Fellowship in Hair and Scalp Disorders at the University of British Columbia. Want to me discuss a specific hair issue? Send in suggestions to doc@askthehairdoc.com
