ATHD Investigates – Organic and Natural products

Is your product truly organic? Lately the buzz words in the cosmetic field are “organic” and “natural”. The focus on such terms stem from  the food industry. The discerning customer has become more insistent on the quality of the ingredients used in his/her hair products. The internet is inundated with articles discussing all things good, bad and terrible about particular ingredients such as mineral oil, sodium lauryl sulphate, formaldehyde and parabens. And judging from the mystery ingredients used in the food industry in certain countries, it is understandable why customers have become quite suspicious of the cosmetics they have been using.

So what does an organic or natural label mean? To be honest, not much.  There is no formal definition of these terms in the cosmetic industry and little legal protection of the terms especially in the United States (except California). Europe has a slightly better  track record with respect to standards set for these terms.  Asia seems to follow the European standards. There is no worldwide consensus on what the actual definitions of these terms mean. There are however, private standards allowed but those vary widely.

Customers think they are getting the best but unless the company is truly committed to their beliefs, they may be purchasing mere gimmickry and no true substance. Indeed, some would be considered more “naturally inspired” and have lots of chemical modifications of natural ingredients. Are those products really worth the price that the company is asking for?

So what does that mean for you? You will probably have to rely on the track record of the company. However, standards are becoming more regulated, so hopefully in the near future when a company states that the product is “natural” or “organic”, it had met the minimum standard for which it can receive that label.

Question of the Month- February

questiontext

Hi Doc,

My dad is pretty bald. Will I be as bald as him?

Concerned Teen

answertext

Dear Concerned Teen,

You may not necessarily become as bald as your dad. The exact mechanism of inheritance for balding/thinning is not entirely known. However, it is generally believed that persons inherit several genes and the number and type determines how bald a person gets. For the most part, persons who have a father who is balding is more likely to start balding before age 30. Also, if the person’s father is really bald, the chances of becoming bald like his dad is pretty high. However, you might have inherited your mom’s non balding genes. I do hope that there is no thinning on your mother’s side of the family. But don’t despair new technologies are being worked on to tackle hair loss. These will be available in the near future.

 

Properties of Hair-Part 1

Human hair approximately contains 65-95% protein, 15-35% water and 1-9% lipids. The properties of the hair, both physical and chemical, are directly related to these components.

What is Keratin?

keratinstructure

The keratin protein is a helicoidal group of cystine containing protein complexes. Like all proteins, keratin has three basic structures. It has a primary, secondary and tertiary structure. The primary structure is the amino acids that make up keratin and how they are bonded to each other. They are bonded through peptide bonds, disulphide bonds and hydroxide bonds. The secondary structure refers to the arrangement of the protein fibres to each other. Keratin from hair is an alpha protein forming twists which are coiled in an anti-clockwise direction. The tertiary structure refers to the ultimate shape the proteinaceous fibre takes. This is enabled by the presence of weak bonds such as hydrogen bonds.

What is the Primary Structure of Keratin?

Like all proteins, the primary structure of keratin is determined by the amino acid content. The amino acid content of hair is pretty much the same worldwide.

aminoacid

What is the Secondary Structure of Keratin?

The resulting keratin protein is shaped into an alpha-helix, which is held into place by special bonds.

 

i4_alpha_helix

What is the Tertiary Structure of Keratin? 

The hair proteins are then coiled together and then bundled into filaments which are further grouped together into larger bundles  of filaments.

coiledkeratin

In between the filaments within the matrix of the cortex lie Keratin Associated Proteins which confer added strength to these filaments. They are bonded to the filaments by disulphide bonds.

What are the bonds that keep the keratin structure together?

The final macromolecular structure of hair is due to the interaction of both intrachain (within chain) and interchain (between chains) bonds which hold the protein filaments together. The interactions are due to several chemical bonds including covalent (disulphide and peptide) bonds, salt linkages, hydrogen bonds, van der Waals forces and hydrogen bonds.

proteinsandbondsbondsinhair

 

References

Dekio S, Jidoi J. Hair Low-sulfur Protein Composition does not Differ Electrophoretically among Different Races. J Dermatol 1988; 15: 393-6.
Nappe C, Kermici M. Electrophoretic analysis of alkylated proteins of human hair from various ethnic groups. J Soc Cosmet Chem 1989; 40: 91-9.
Dekio S, Jidoi J. Amounts of Fibrous Proteins and Matrix Substances in Hairs of Different Races. J Dermatol 1990; 17: 62-4.
Baden HP. Biochemistry of hair protein. Clinics in Dermatology 1988; 6: 22-5.
Shimomura Y, Ito M. Human Hair Keratin-Associated Proteins. J Investig Dermatol Symp Proc 2005; 10: 230-3.

Draelos MD, Zoe Diana (2007-04-17). Hair Care (Kindle Locations 331-333). Informa Healthcare. Kindle Edition. 

Sources of Diagrams

intranet.tdmu.edu.ua

hairkeratins.com

teachers.yale.edu