Black Hair Growth Myths

Five Common Black Hair Growth Myths- Do you know of any more?

Black hair growth myths are so deeply entrenched that persons often find it impossible to believe that there is more to kinky/curly/coily hair than  what they have been told their entire lives. I didn’t want to discuss this as yet in my blog series as I am still compiling articles on hair in general. However, recently, I was told something so unbelievably stupid about natural Afro-textured hair that I figured that I needed to publish this sooner. Today’s blog will be about myths about African hair. I will deal with the totally absurd things I’ve heard about African hair another time.

Myth #1: Black Hair Doesn’t Grow

This myth is pervasive because the length that a lot of black women covet has been seemingly out of reach for them. This has been mistakenly attributed to an inability for the hair itself to grow, never mind that persons have to relax  or colour their NEW GROWTH every six weeks. The problem with black hair growth lies in the ease with which the hair breaks. LENGTH RETENTION is hard due to poor grooming practices i.e. daily flatiron or curl, abusive combing of the hair,  and not conditioning the hair enough. Once those problems have been addressed, persons will be surprised as to how much hair will remain on their head and how much longer it will get.

Myth #2: Natural hair is tough and unmanageable

And why not? After all, a lot of persons have memories of their hair actually breaking combs! Telling someone in Jamaica that ,”Your hair favour coir*,” conjures up images of an unruly dry mass that is beyond salvation. This is so far from the truth. Experimental data have conclusively shown that African hair is the most fragile compared to other racial hair types. Each bend in the hair is a potential point for breakage. It is the innate dryness of the hair that causes significant friction making it difficult to comb. Studies  also showed that wet combing the hair and using a leave-in-conditioner will make it much easier to comb and therefore manage. 


Myth #3: Natural hair is thick, plentiful and STRONG

Do not be fooled by the illusion of 3-D volume created by curls. Persons are often surprised by the reduction in volume they see when they straighten their hair. The density of hair on anyone’s scalp is genetically determined. Blacks in general have the least amount of hair on their heads compared to other races. Only natural red heads have the lowest density compared to persons of  African descent. Even the hair strands are not as thick as people think they are. Asians have the thickest strands, African hair is in the middle, while whites have finer hair.

It is the difficulty in combing natural hair that causes persons to assume the hair is strong. Heck, people think that the hair is so strong that it can stop the path of missiles! People, therefore, then do all sorts of crazy things like going platinum blonde in one sitting and then wonder why their hair breaks right down to their scalp simply because they thought their hair could take it? Studies have shown that African hair breaks at a lower applied force than European and Asian hair. It is not as hardy as it appears. Treat your hair delicately and it will thank you for it.


Myth #4: Wearing braids/weaves grows your hair

This is not entirely false. Wearing additional hair does decrease the amount of daily handling of the hair thus allowing the hair to retain length. However, too tight braiding that causes soreness to the scalp will result in hair pulled out directly from the root, and if the hair strand was weak and dry before braiding/weaving, the hair will dry out even more and break once the additional hair is installed. This is especially true if the type of hair used is ultra absorptive sucking all the oils and moisture away from your own strands of hair. So even though persons have experienced significant hair growth after having installed braids or weave, they still had to cut a lot of it off due to the poor condition the hair was found to be in. It is imperative that the hair is in excellent condition BEFORE installing the added hair. Ensure that you deep condition before installing, and continue to moisturise the hair under the wig, weave or braid extensions, otherwise the rest period would have been a wasted effort.


Myth #5 : Hair oils/pomades and “growth creams” will make your hair grow

For whatever reason, this myth cannot be banished to never neverland. There is always someone in the beauty supply store exclaiming how X product for their scalp grew their hair. Now there are some things that have been clinically proven to grow hair e.g. Minoxidil, however, not everything that is on the market has been definitively shown to grow hair. In any case, your hair will grow once you are properly nourished and are not experiencing some internal problem , such as Thyroid disease or Systemic Lupus, or some scalp disease such as Alopecia areata, Lichen Planopilaris or Traction Alopecia. Once you adopt a better hair care regimen, the length will be seen eventually.


*coir-fibre from the husk of the coconut mistakenly pronounced “kaya” in Jamaica.

About

Dr. Llorenia Muir-Green is a practising dermatologist in Jamaica. She has an avid interest in hair and scalp disorders.  She is a member of the Medical Association of Jamaica,  Dermatology Association of Jamaica and is an Associate Member of the Caribbean Dermatology Association. She was a recipient of the 2013 Fellowship in Hair and Scalp Disorders at the University of British Columbia.

ATHD investigates: Sunblock for hair?

Summer is upon us. It’s that time of year when the sun is blazing in all its glory and we’re tempted to spend hours by the pool or at the beach. For many, it is customary to slather on sunblock to protect against the damaging rays of the sun on the skin. However, most of us never consider using it on our hair.  Is sunblock for hair actually necessary? Is this just all hocus pocus? Are cosmetic companies trying to suck even more money from us?

Sun damages hair

Hair becomes damaged by two main processes: trauma and weathering. Trauma results from simple combing, brushing and just regular manipulation of hair.  Weathering processes include surprisingly sun damage. So how do the sun’s rays damage our hair?

UV light damages the bonds within the hair

Experiments have shown that prolonged exposure to UV light causes a reduction of integral hair lipid. It is worsened by the type of hair you have. The curlier your hair, the more likely your hair will be damaged by the sun exposure as it is naturally lower in integral hair lipid.

It also oxidises  some of the proteins within the hair shaft itself particularly attacking the carbon in the amide bonds, and the sulphur molecules as well. The hair colour is affected resulting in a lightening of existing hair colour. UVA is responsible for the colour changes whilst UVB is responsible for protein loss.

Interestingly the pigments found in commercial hair dye has been somewhat useful in protecting the hair  shaft itself from further damage from the sun. Yes hair dyes will cause damage to the hair’s cortex but the pigments themselves act to trap the sun’s rays. The downside is that the colour moiety itself can experience a colour shift. People often report that the colour of  their semi and permanent dyed hair changing colour after prolonged exposure in the sun.

Hair Sunscreens

The main aim for sunblock for hair is to preserve the hair as a textile fibre. Since the sun’s rays help to decrease the overall tensile strength, colour and other such properties, traditional sunscreens would help to negate these deleterious effects. There are products currently available on the market as hair sunscreens. Most have a two-in-one purpose acting as a fixative spray, gel or mousse designed to be put on last. How well do they stand up to actual usage especially for those who end up at the beach all day? That you will have to test for yourself.

Want me to Investigate some hair care product or practice? Send in your topic to  doc@askthehairdoc.com

About

Dr. Llorenia Muir-Green is a practising dermatologist in Jamaica. She has an avid interest in hair and scalp disorders.  She is a member of the Medical Association of Jamaica,  Dermatology Association of Jamaica and is an Associate Member of the Caribbean Dermatology Association. She was a recipient of the 2013 Fellowship in Hair and Scalp Disorders at the University of British Columbia.

 

 

 

June’s QOM

questiontext

 

Hi Doc,

I just realized that I need to find an effective shampoo for my daughter as she has been on a local swim team for the last 2 years and currently trains about 4 days a week. Can you provide information on exactly what chlorine does to the hair and the right products and treatment for “swimmers hair” ? She wears her swim cap of course, and it does help a little as her hair is never really soaked.

juneqom

Photo credit: Facebook Fan Kerry-Ann

answertext

Chlorine is no one’s friend. It has been shown mainly in wool (and similarly in hair) to cleave the thioester bonds which bind 18 MEA (a major hair integral lipid) to the cuticle. It also oxidises the disulphide bonds in the proteins of the hair thus degrading them. This results in increased friction between the hair fibres and of course increased fragility of the hair. It can decrease the melanin in the hair causing it to become lighter over time. 

As you know the swim caps are not designed to keep the hair from getting wet. There are some that keep the hair drier than others. The best thing to do is to coat the hair with conditioner or oil or a butter such as shea butter and then place the cap on. This also doubles as a deep conditioning treatment and gives little space for the water to eat away at the hair. After swimming wash hair with a good swimmer’s shampoo. These usually have Vit C or sodium thiosulphate to remove residual chlorine. They also contain EDTA to remove copper found in the algaecides present in the pool. Copper deposition is responsible for green tinge in lighter hued hairs. It doesn’t show in black hair but the copper is certainly deposited.   Follow with a conditioner. Hope that helps!