May 2015 -

ATHD Investigates Coconut Oil

CoconutOil

All things coconut have become the rage recently. In countries where this palm has been traditionally grown, the uses have been quite numerous. In the hair industry, coconut oil has become a superstar. But what makes it so useful to hair?

Preparation of Coconut oil

The oil is usually produced from the firm kernel (flesh or meat) found in the mature coconut. The kernel is dried using various methods and then pressed to release the oil. More traditional methods usually involve blending the kernel in water, making coconut milk, then boiling this down allowing the oil to separate and float to the top.

Properties of Coconut oil

Coconut oil contains several different length chain fatty acids. It is mostly composed of medium chain saturated fatty acids such as lauric, myristic and palmitic acids. It’s melting point is 24 deg C, which means that in certain climates it solidifies quite easily. So don’t be alarmed if it comes as a solid and not a liquid in colder countries.

So how does coconut oil help hair?

This is where the story behind coconut oil becomes quite interesting. Studies showed that coconut oil when applied to hair has protective properties. In one particular study, it was shown that it reduces the amount of protein lost from mechanical damage while combing the hair. The study was done on virgin, bleached and permed hair. In all instances, the damage was reduced.

In another study, it was found by way of mass spectrophtometry, that it penetrates the hair shaft better than mineral oil. This just confirmed what people already experience. So many persons use a lot of products containing mineral oil on their hair. They often describe that the hair feels oily but somehow dry at the same time. Seems paradoxical but I’ve experienced this first hand as well. The oil just sits on top of the hair and because there is no moisture (water), the hair just feels crunchy and dry.

And yet in another study, it was shown that although applying oils to the hair blocks penetration of atmospheric water, coconut oil allowed more water into the hair than mineral oil. This of course confirms why petroleum based products such as petrolatum or mineral oil have been used traditionally as pressing oils.

So how can you use coconut oil?

Coconut oil can be added to your hair care regimen in many ways:

1. Pre-shampoo Treatment

The most popular recipe on the internet is mixing equal amounts of coconut oil and honey. Or you could just use the plain oil itself. I must say that this recipe always melted away any tangles I had.

2. Hot oil Treatment

3. Carrier oil for essential oils

Remember essential oils are concentrated oils that should not be used without diluting. Coconut oil is one such oil that can be used.

4. Boost deep conditioner

Your deep conditioner not acting right? Add some coconut oil.

5. Daily sealing oil- Used as a last step it will help keep the moisturiser or leave-in-conditioner longer in the hair.

May’s QOM- Which hair growth serum should I use?

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Doc, which hair growth serum should I use?

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I’ve been asked this question so many times in so many different ways. Everyone wants the next great hair potion. Most persons are bombarded by a myriad of hair growth serums on the market. However, what should the discerning customer use to gauge what product she should purchase?

All are not created equally and all do not address ALL types of hair loss. Most non-medicated hair growth serums contain carrier oils such as coconut, olive or jojoba oil. Additional reported active ingredients include essential oils such as rosemary, nettle, and cinnamon oils. The essential oils help stimulate the scalp through various undetermined mechanisms resulting in hair growth. Other ingredients that have been included in non-medicated hair growth serums are: Saw Palmetto, (to help those with Androgenetic Alopecia), Caffeine, Capsicum, and Castor oil. The latter has received so much attention in recent years that virtually everyone has a bottle of it. Please see my blog post on it: http://askthehairdoc.com/athd-investigates-castor-oil/.

So how does one choose the right product? First of all, remember that the only topical product proven to grow hair for Androgenetic Alopecia is Minoxidil. All others, except caffeine, have not been extensively proven to grow hair. Other hair loss disorders such as Traction Alopecia and Central Centrifugal Cicatricial Alopecia may not necessarily respond to topical products and may need oral medication to halt hair loss. Unfortunately, I cannot specifically say which is the best product to use. Even Minoxidil (Rogaine), has been shown to not work in everybody. So my advice is to try one product at a time, and if after 4 months there is no improvement, then move on. If after two products, there is no improvement, consider getting a consultation. Don’t try to purchase every product out there, because the efficacy of some of the products have not been extensively studied and so most consumers have to rely on anecdotal reviews. Hopefully, as hair research increases, more effective products will be available on the market.

Pattern Hair Loss

First in our series on non-scarring hair loss is the ever pervasive Pattern Hair Loss or Androgenetic Alopecia. It is mostly an inherited condition affecting up to 40% of women by menopause, and up to twice that amount in men by age 50.

Pattern Hair Loss presents differently between men and women. Women tend to have generalised thinning to the top and sides, whilst men start off with thinning at the temples eventually ending with the “horse shoe” shape that is often dreaded.

The cause of Pattern Hair Loss, though largely known, is still being determined. In men it is due to excessive sensitivity to the male hormone dihydrotesterone. In women, male hormones are not seen as a major factor, however, the exact mechanism is yet to be determined. In fact, it has been postulated that there are other non-hormonal factors which may contribute to Pattern Hair Loss in both men and women.

As it is a genetic disorder, there is no permanent cure for Pattern Hair Loss. Gene therapy, ideally the perfect treatment, has not been developed for the condition. The best that is available today is hair transplantation. In the near future, stem cell therapy will likely lead the way. For most, topical Minoxidil is the best option in addition to oral therapy with Finasteride and other anti-androgen medications are useful.

Next month: Male Pattern Hair Loss- Cause and Staging