June 2015 -

June QOM

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Dear Doc,

I recently flatironed my natural hair. After I washed it out, some sections of my hair remained straight. Is there anything that I could do to restore them?

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The short answer to that is no. Unfortunately, when hair is subjected to high temperatures, especially without a heat protectant, the proteins are permanently changed. The only way to restore the hair, is to have it cut off.

There are reports of persons who have tried to revive their heat damaged hair with intense deep conditioning about twice a week. That may help IF the hair wasn’t completely burnt straight. However, there is absolutely no guarantee.

Having had this happen to me in the past, it was quite frustrating to have to cut sections of my hair, but in the end it did grow back.

Male Pattern Hair Loss

Male Pattern Hair Loss or Androgenetic Alopecia is the most common type of hair loss found in men. Up to 80% of men will experience some level of hair loss by their 70s. Most will discover their hair loss in their 30s and 40s however, quite a number may start long before in their teens.

So what causes Male Pattern Hair Loss?

Male Pattern Hair Loss is due to the activity of a hormone Dihydrotestosterone, a potent androgen (male hormone). The hair follicle in affected men is more sensitive to this hormone. There are several genes responsible for the condition and they can be inherited from either the mother, father, or both. This hormone is made from Testosterone under the action of the enzyme, 5-alpha reductase. Dihydrotestosterone latches onto the receptors in the hair follicle and causes a decreased anagen (hair growth) along with reduction in the size of the hair follicle. The hairs become progressively thinner and more vellus-like.

Stages of Male Pattern Hair Loss

There are several stages of Male Pattern Hair Loss. The main staging system used is the Norwood Hamilton Scale for Hair Loss in men.

norwood-hamilton

Which stage do you fall under?

Next month: Treatment options

Crazy black hair growth myths

I have heard some crazy things uttered from people, including hair stylists, with respect to Afro-textured hair. Black hair growth myths are so pervasive and some so outlandish, leaving me dumbfounded that I simply refuse to believe that stylists were not taught otherwise at beauty school. Here are some of the craziest black hair growth myths I’ve heard:

1. Natural hair doesn’t get split ends

This was told to me in a salon many years ago when I revealed I had cut my hair due to split ends. I don’t know on which planet people live on, but, on Earth, everyone no matter the race will get split ends. As hair exits the scalp it is dead. As the hair gets longer, the hair fibre will begin to disintegrate due to both the natural weathering processes as well as from the general handling of the hair. The ends of the hair will start to lose the cuticle exposing the inner cortex therefore cause the hair to split more easily. This property does not differ if you are Asian, European or African.

2. Natural hair will not take hair rinses.

I was flabbergasted when the sales person told me this. Yes relaxed and permanently dyed hair are more porous, and technically the hair rinse should stay on better, but as someone who has used a hair rinse in the past, I was a bit put off by this statement. Again, hair is a fibre, just like cotton, wool, and mohair. There are plenty of persons who I’ve told to switch to hair rinses due to the issues experienced with their scalps when they use permanent dyes. Yes the rinse goes faster especially on the grey hair, but it does deposit on natural hair.

3. That style can’t be done on natural hair.

Nothing irks me more than these words. In this age of the internet where millions of videos exist detailing style after style on natural hair, it is painful to have this said to you. If I had the ability to make my hair look like I stepped out of a salon I would stop going to stylists all together. Hair is a fibre. It has physical and chemical properties that can be manipulated. Natural hair can be manipulated into any shape that you want to put it in.

4. You must be mixed with X race in you for your hair to be so long!

Luckily I don’t personally get this said to me anymore. I guess my hair is too kinky for anyone to say this. However, this statement always diminishes the efforts taken to actually grow natural hair. Not until my hair care practices improved did I manage to get my hair to significantly longer lengths. When I explain to persons that deep conditioning will make that much of a difference to length retention, they refuse to believe. I swear on my mother’s grave, my hair has never been this long in my life.

5. The 3 or 4 different textures on the scalp is due to mixed heritage

This is so far from the truth. This has to do with the property of curly textured hair. Persons of all races complain of this issue. It doesn’t matter what race you are, most persons with curly hair have at least 2 textures. The reason for this is unknown.