The Hair Doc, Author at

Crazy black hair growth myths

I have heard some crazy things uttered from people, including hair stylists, with respect to Afro-textured hair. Black hair growth myths are so pervasive and some so outlandish, leaving me dumbfounded that I simply refuse to believe that stylists were not taught otherwise at beauty school. Here are some of the craziest black hair growth myths I’ve heard:

1. Natural hair doesn’t get split ends

This was told to me in a salon many years ago when I revealed I had cut my hair due to split ends. I don’t know on which planet people live on, but, on Earth, everyone no matter the race will get split ends. As hair exits the scalp it is dead. As the hair gets longer, the hair fibre will begin to disintegrate due to both the natural weathering processes as well as from the general handling of the hair. The ends of the hair will start to lose the cuticle exposing the inner cortex therefore cause the hair to split more easily. This property does not differ if you are Asian, European or African.

2. Natural hair will not take hair rinses.

I was flabbergasted when the sales person told me this. Yes relaxed and permanently dyed hair are more porous, and technically the hair rinse should stay on better, but as someone who has used a hair rinse in the past, I was a bit put off by this statement. Again, hair is a fibre, just like cotton, wool, and mohair. There are plenty of persons who I’ve told to switch to hair rinses due to the issues experienced with their scalps when they use permanent dyes. Yes the rinse goes faster especially on the grey hair, but it does deposit on natural hair.

3. That style can’t be done on natural hair.

Nothing irks me more than these words. In this age of the internet where millions of videos exist detailing style after style on natural hair, it is painful to have this said to you. If I had the ability to make my hair look like I stepped out of a salon I would stop going to stylists all together. Hair is a fibre. It has physical and chemical properties that can be manipulated. Natural hair can be manipulated into any shape that you want to put it in.

4. You must be mixed with X race in you for your hair to be so long!

Luckily I don’t personally get this said to me anymore. I guess my hair is too kinky for anyone to say this. However, this statement always diminishes the efforts taken to actually grow natural hair. Not until my hair care practices improved did I manage to get my hair to significantly longer lengths. When I explain to persons that deep conditioning will make that much of a difference to length retention, they refuse to believe. I swear on my mother’s grave, my hair has never been this long in my life.

5. The 3 or 4 different textures on the scalp is due to mixed heritage

This is so far from the truth. This has to do with the property of curly textured hair. Persons of all races complain of this issue. It doesn’t matter what race you are, most persons with curly hair have at least 2 textures. The reason for this is unknown.

ATHD Investigates Coconut Oil

CoconutOil

All things coconut have become the rage recently. In countries where this palm has been traditionally grown, the uses have been quite numerous. In the hair industry, coconut oil has become a superstar. But what makes it so useful to hair?

Preparation of Coconut oil

The oil is usually produced from the firm kernel (flesh or meat) found in the mature coconut. The kernel is dried using various methods and then pressed to release the oil. More traditional methods usually involve blending the kernel in water, making coconut milk, then boiling this down allowing the oil to separate and float to the top.

Properties of Coconut oil

Coconut oil contains several different length chain fatty acids. It is mostly composed of medium chain saturated fatty acids such as lauric, myristic and palmitic acids. It’s melting point is 24 deg C, which means that in certain climates it solidifies quite easily. So don’t be alarmed if it comes as a solid and not a liquid in colder countries.

So how does coconut oil help hair?

This is where the story behind coconut oil becomes quite interesting. Studies showed that coconut oil when applied to hair has protective properties. In one particular study, it was shown that it reduces the amount of protein lost from mechanical damage while combing the hair. The study was done on virgin, bleached and permed hair. In all instances, the damage was reduced.

In another study, it was found by way of mass spectrophtometry, that it penetrates the hair shaft better than mineral oil. This just confirmed what people already experience. So many persons use a lot of products containing mineral oil on their hair. They often describe that the hair feels oily but somehow dry at the same time. Seems paradoxical but I’ve experienced this first hand as well. The oil just sits on top of the hair and because there is no moisture (water), the hair just feels crunchy and dry.

And yet in another study, it was shown that although applying oils to the hair blocks penetration of atmospheric water, coconut oil allowed more water into the hair than mineral oil. This of course confirms why petroleum based products such as petrolatum or mineral oil have been used traditionally as pressing oils.

So how can you use coconut oil?

Coconut oil can be added to your hair care regimen in many ways:

1. Pre-shampoo Treatment

The most popular recipe on the internet is mixing equal amounts of coconut oil and honey. Or you could just use the plain oil itself. I must say that this recipe always melted away any tangles I had.

2. Hot oil Treatment

3. Carrier oil for essential oils

Remember essential oils are concentrated oils that should not be used without diluting. Coconut oil is one such oil that can be used.

4. Boost deep conditioner

Your deep conditioner not acting right? Add some coconut oil.

5. Daily sealing oil- Used as a last step it will help keep the moisturiser or leave-in-conditioner longer in the hair.

May’s QOM- Which hair growth serum should I use?

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Doc, which hair growth serum should I use?

answertext

I’ve been asked this question so many times in so many different ways. Everyone wants the next great hair potion. Most persons are bombarded by a myriad of hair growth serums on the market. However, what should the discerning customer use to gauge what product she should purchase?

All are not created equally and all do not address ALL types of hair loss. Most non-medicated hair growth serums contain carrier oils such as coconut, olive or jojoba oil. Additional reported active ingredients include essential oils such as rosemary, nettle, and cinnamon oils. The essential oils help stimulate the scalp through various undetermined mechanisms resulting in hair growth. Other ingredients that have been included in non-medicated hair growth serums are: Saw Palmetto, (to help those with Androgenetic Alopecia), Caffeine, Capsicum, and Castor oil. The latter has received so much attention in recent years that virtually everyone has a bottle of it. Please see my blog post on it: http://askthehairdoc.com/athd-investigates-castor-oil/.

So how does one choose the right product? First of all, remember that the only topical product proven to grow hair for Androgenetic Alopecia is Minoxidil. All others, except caffeine, have not been extensively proven to grow hair. Other hair loss disorders such as Traction Alopecia and Central Centrifugal Cicatricial Alopecia may not necessarily respond to topical products and may need oral medication to halt hair loss. Unfortunately, I cannot specifically say which is the best product to use. Even Minoxidil (Rogaine), has been shown to not work in everybody. So my advice is to try one product at a time, and if after 4 months there is no improvement, then move on. If after two products, there is no improvement, consider getting a consultation. Don’t try to purchase every product out there, because the efficacy of some of the products have not been extensively studied and so most consumers have to rely on anecdotal reviews. Hopefully, as hair research increases, more effective products will be available on the market.

Pattern Hair Loss

First in our series on non-scarring hair loss is the ever pervasive Pattern Hair Loss or Androgenetic Alopecia. It is mostly an inherited condition affecting up to 40% of women by menopause, and up to twice that amount in men by age 50.

Pattern Hair Loss presents differently between men and women. Women tend to have generalised thinning to the top and sides, whilst men start off with thinning at the temples eventually ending with the “horse shoe” shape that is often dreaded.

The cause of Pattern Hair Loss, though largely known, is still being determined. In men it is due to excessive sensitivity to the male hormone dihydrotesterone. In women, male hormones are not seen as a major factor, however, the exact mechanism is yet to be determined. In fact, it has been postulated that there are other non-hormonal factors which may contribute to Pattern Hair Loss in both men and women.

As it is a genetic disorder, there is no permanent cure for Pattern Hair Loss. Gene therapy, ideally the perfect treatment, has not been developed for the condition. The best that is available today is hair transplantation. In the near future, stem cell therapy will likely lead the way. For most, topical Minoxidil is the best option in addition to oral therapy with Finasteride and other anti-androgen medications are useful.

Next month: Male Pattern Hair Loss- Cause and Staging

April’s QOM

Can the active ingredient in Latisse ( bimatoprost, careprost,etc) really grow back scalp hair? If

so, What type of growth can it stimuate and is a maintenance program needed to retain the

hair growth?

There is so much talk about this online but no definitive answers. Prostamide is FDA cleared to

regrowth lashes, why not scalp hair?

Many thanks,

Joy

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Dear Joy,

Yes it has been shown to regrow hair on other areas besides the eyelash. Bimatoprost, a prostamide receptor analogue (stimulator), is the active ingredient in both Careprost and Latisse. An animal study done on mice did show that it enhanced hair growth, however its efficacy was not compared to Minoxidil. I also haven’t found studies on scalp hair regrowth in humans. In my search, I have found more Stage 2 human studies with Lantanoprost than with Bimatoprost.

A probable reason for the company not doing a full- on robust study for this indication, is because of the comparative cost of making the product versus Minoxidil (Rogaine). There is a marked difference in pricing between the two products. For the product to be marketed for scalp hair regrowth, it must outperform Minoxidil not only in scalp hair growth but also in pricing.

Hope that helps!