Tag: hair

September’s QOM- What is Aminexil?

questiontext

Hi Doc,

Could you give me some information on Aminexil Force R capsules? What is aminexil?

 

answertext

Hiya!

Aminexil Force R is a relatively new topical hair loss product produced under the L’Oreal group. Aminexil,, 2,4-Diamino pyrimidine-3-oxide, is a derivative of Minoxidil.

Minoxidil

minoxidil

 

Amenixil

kopexil

 

It has been marketed as having the same positive effects as  Minoxidil, i.e. hair growth, without the side effects. It is also claimed to help prevent fibrosis or scarring around the hair follicles which can be seen in late stage Androgenetic Alopecia. There has only been a few studies done on the efficacy of this molecule. Therefore, it has not been rigorously examined when compared to Minoxidil.

Is it worth trying? Only if you have already exhausted available topical and oral options.

 

 

 

Crazy black hair growth myths

I have heard some crazy things uttered from people, including  hair stylists,  with respect to Afro-textured hair. Black hair growth myths are so pervasive and some so outlandish, leaving me dumbfounded that I simply refuse to believe that stylists were not taught otherwise at beauty school. Here are some of the craziest black hair growth myths I’ve heard:

 

1. Natural hair doesn’t get split ends

This was told to me in a salon many years ago when I revealed I had cut my hair due to split ends. I don’t know on which planet people live on, but, on Earth, everyone no matter the race will get split ends. As hair exits the scalp it is dead. As the hair gets longer, the hair fibre will begin to disintegrate due to both the natural weathering processes as well as from the general handling of the hair. The ends of the hair will start to lose the cuticle exposing the inner cortex therefore cause the hair to split more easily. This property does not differ if you are Asian, European or African.

2. Natural hair will not take hair rinses.

I was flabbergasted when the sales person told me this. Yes relaxed and permanently dyed hair are more porous, and technically the hair rinse should stay on better, but as someone who has used a hair rinse in the past, I  was a bit put off by this statement.  Again, hair is a fibre, just like cotton, wool, and mohair. There are plenty of persons who I’ve told to switch to hair rinses due to the issues experienced with their scalps when they use permanent dyes. Yes the rinse goes faster especially on the grey hair, but it does deposit on natural hair.

3. That style can’t be done on natural hair.

Nothing irks me more than these words. In this age of the internet where millions of videos exist detailing style after style on natural hair, it is painful to have this said to you. If I had the ability to make my hair look like I stepped out of a salon I would stop going to stylists all together. Hair is a fibre. It has physical  and chemical properties that can be manipulated. Natural hair can be manipulated into any shape that you want to put it in.

4. You must be mixed with X race in you for your hair to be so long!

Luckily I don’t personally get this said to me anymore. I guess my hair is too kinky for anyone to say this. However, this statement always diminishes the efforts taken to actually grow natural hair. Not until my hair care practices improved did I manage to get my hair to significantly longer lengths. When I explain to persons that deep conditioning will make that much of a difference to length retention, they refuse to believe. I swear on my mother’s grave, my hair has never been this long in my life.

5.  The 3 or 4 different textures on the scalp is due to mixed heritage

This is so far from the truth. This has to do with the property of curly textured hair. Persons of all races complain of this issue. It doesn’t matter what race you are, most persons with curly hair have at least 2 textures. The reason for this is unknown.

 

ATHD Investigates Coconut Oil

CoconutOil

 

All things coconut have become the rage recently. In countries where this palm has been traditionally grown, the uses have been quite numerous. In the hair industry, coconut oil has become a superstar. But what makes it so useful to hair?

Preparation of Coconut oil

The oil is usually produced from the firm kernel (flesh or meat) found in the mature coconut. The kernel is dried using various methods and then pressed to release the oil. More traditional methods usually involve blending the kernel in water, making coconut milk, then boiling this down allowing the oil to separate and float to the top.

Properties of Coconut oil

Coconut oil contains several different length chain fatty acids. It is mostly composed of medium chain saturated fatty acids such as lauric, myristic and palmitic acids. It’s melting point is 24 deg C, which means that in certain climates it solidifies quite easily. So don’t be alarmed if it comes as a solid and not a liquid in colder countries.

 

So how does coconut oil help hair?

This is where the story behind coconut oil becomes quite interesting. Studies showed that coconut oil when applied to hair has protective properties. In one particular study, it was shown that it reduces the amount of protein lost from mechanical damage while combing the hair. The study was done on virgin, bleached and permed hair. In all instances, the damage was reduced.

In another study, it was found by way of mass spectrophtometry, that it penetrates  the hair shaft better than mineral oil. This just confirmed what people already experience. So many persons use a lot of products containing mineral oil on their hair. They often describe that the hair feels oily but somehow dry at the same time. Seems paradoxical but I’ve experienced this first hand as well.  The oil just sits on top of the hair and because there is no moisture (water), the hair just feels crunchy and dry.

And yet in another study, it was shown that although applying oils to the hair blocks penetration of atmospheric water, coconut oil allowed more water into the hair than mineral oil. This of course confirms  why petroleum based products such as petrolatum or mineral oil have been used traditionally as pressing oils.

So how can you use coconut oil?

Coconut oil can be added to your hair care regimen in many ways:

1. Pre-shampoo Treatment

The most popular recipe on the internet is mixing equal amounts of coconut oil and honey. Or you could just use the plain oil itself. I must say that this recipe always melted away any tangles I had.

2. Hot oil Treatment

3. Carrier oil for essential oils

Remember essential oils are concentrated oils that should not be used without diluting. Coconut oil is one such oil that can be used.

4. Boost deep conditioner

Your deep conditioner not acting right? Add some coconut oil.

5. Daily sealing oil- Used as a last step it will help keep the moisturiser or leave-in-conditioner longer in the hair.

 

 

 

 

 

 

5 Myths about Hair Loss in Men

From time to time during my discussions with male patients, I come across general misconceptions about hair and hair loss. Some of this information may have been gathered from the internet or derived from basic folklore that has survived the test of time. These are some of the myths about hair loss in men that I’ve encountered.

1. Hair Loss is inherited from the mother

This is not true. The genes for hair loss are quite numerous and are inherited from both parents. The severity of your hair balding has more to do with the number of genes you inherited. If you have hair loss on both sides of your family, you are more likely to suffer from hair loss than a person who has no known family member with hair loss.

2. Only older men are affected

Though Male Pattern Hair Loss is seen in more middle-aged to elderly men, young men are also capable of being affected by the condition. A lot of men start as early as in their teen or early twenties.

3. If I take testosterone pills I will grow more hair

We all know that  testosterone is the predominant androgen (male) hormone that is responsible for the sexual characteristics of men. So because of this, there is some belief that if I take more testosterone then it would make me more virile and youthful. Losing one’s hair is thought to make some men feel less youthful. Unfortunately, this myth needs to quit while it’s ahead. Testosterone is converted to the more potent Dihydrotesterone which is the hormone responsible for binding to the receptors in the hair follicle and causing the hair to miniaturise. Taking more testosterone just adds fuel to the fire.

 

4. Hard physical exercise decreases conversion of Testosterone to DHT

I’m not sure how this myth came about but this is so far from the truth. Testosterone is usually converted to the more potent Dihydrotestosterone in all men. Individuals with Male Pattern Hair Loss are more sensitive to DHT because of their genetics.  So technically speaking they may have the same level of DHT as another man, but because of their greater sensitivity of their hair follicles to the hormone DHT, they lose more hair. Yes, there have been studies indicating that extremely hard exercise may cause a decrease in testosterone and therefore should theoretically decrease DHT. However, for all the athletes who are hitting the gym for hours on end but yet are still balding, this belief should be shelved quickly. Usain Bolt anyone?

5. Men who are balding have more testosterone.

Most studies show that most men have the same levels of testosterone across the board. Its production generally slows a bit as you get older, hence why some men’s libido and energy decrease as they get older. Those men who have genetic hair loss are more susceptible to the effects of the hormone DHT than those who don’t suffer from the condition.

 

Dr. Llorenia Muir-Green is a practising dermatologist in Jamaica.  She graduated from the UWI, first obtaining a double major in Chemistry and Biochemistry. She then went on to pursue a career in Medicine. Having obtained her Medical degree from UWI, she went on to pursue postgraduate specialisation in Clinical Dermatology at Cardiff University, for which she got distinction.  She was a recipient of the 2013 Fellowship in Hair and Scalp Disorders at the University of British Columbia.  She is a member of the North American Hair Research Society, International Society of Hair Restoration Surgery,  Dermatology Association of Jamaica as well as an Associate Member of the Caribbean Dermatology Association. She currently works at the Dermatology Clinic at National Chest Hospital where she recently established a Hair Clinic.

 

Hair Texture- What contributes to it?

Hair texture has often been described by many scientific authors in terms of three racial types: African, Caucasian, and Asian. However, it has been noted that there is significant intra-racial variation, with scientists now suggesting that hair be described by its degree of curliness with a broad definition of straight, wavy and curly. In general, the degree of curliness correlates with the distribution of hair keratins and cell type within the hair fiber,  as well as with the number of mesocortical cells. The curlier the hair, the fewer mesocortical cells are present. See this past post on the distribution of cells affecting the hair texture:

http://askthehairdoc.com/the-hair-shaft/

Embarking on this mission, scientists collected hairs from almost 1500 subjects located in eighteen countries worldwide. Persons were not to have a perm, straightener, or relaxer in their hair. Hairs were taken from the vertex, nape, and temples. Four parameters were used to type the hairs, namely Curl Diameter, Curl index (ratio of stretched length of hair to length at rest), highest number of waves and the highest number of constrictions. Based on their findings, they devised a hair typing system as depicted in the figure below. The experiment was repeated on a larger scale thus validating the results.

 

Hair Texture Typing Photo Scale

hairtexture

Source: de la Mettrie R, Saint-Leger D, Loussouarn G et al. Shape variability and classification of human hair: A worldwide approach. Human Biology 2007; 79: 265-81.

Other genetic studies have been done showing why certain populations have specific hair types. East Asians were found to have the mutation in the gene for the  ectodysplasin A receptor (EDAR) and the FGFR2 gene polymorphisms. These two genes are associated with the thickness of hair. The positive selection in this group resulted in hair being thicker than all other races. In Europeans, variations of the gene coding for the Trichohyalin protein were found to be responsible for  the development of straight, wavy or curly hair, with Northern Europeans having the highest variation.

The Hair Doc

Dr. Llorenia Muir-Green is a practising dermatologist in Jamaica. She has an avid interest in hair and scalp disorders.  She is a member of the Medical Association of Jamaica,  Dermatology Association of Jamaica and is an Associate Member of the Caribbean Dermatology Association. She was a recipient of the 2013 Fellowship in Hair and Scalp Disorders at the University of British Columbia.