ATHD investigates: Sunblock for hair?

Summer is upon us. It’s that time of year when the sun is blazing in all its glory and we’re tempted to spend hours by the pool or at the beach. For many, it is customary to slather on sunblock to protect against the damaging rays of the sun on the skin. However, most of us never consider using it on our hair.  Is sunblock for hair actually necessary? Is this just all hocus pocus? Are cosmetic companies trying to suck even more money from us?

Sun damages hair

Hair becomes damaged by two main processes: trauma and weathering. Trauma results from simple combing, brushing and just regular manipulation of hair.  Weathering processes include surprisingly sun damage. So how do the sun’s rays damage our hair?

UV light damages the bonds within the hair

Experiments have shown that prolonged exposure to UV light causes a reduction of integral hair lipid. It is worsened by the type of hair you have. The curlier your hair, the more likely your hair will be damaged by the sun exposure as it is naturally lower in integral hair lipid.

It also oxidises  some of the proteins within the hair shaft itself particularly attacking the carbon in the amide bonds, and the sulphur molecules as well. The hair colour is affected resulting in a lightening of existing hair colour. UVA is responsible for the colour changes whilst UVB is responsible for protein loss.

Interestingly the pigments found in commercial hair dye has been somewhat useful in protecting the hair  shaft itself from further damage from the sun. Yes hair dyes will cause damage to the hair’s cortex but the pigments themselves act to trap the sun’s rays. The downside is that the colour moiety itself can experience a colour shift. People often report that the colour of  their semi and permanent dyed hair changing colour after prolonged exposure in the sun.

Hair Sunscreens

The main aim for sunblock for hair is to preserve the hair as a textile fibre. Since the sun’s rays help to decrease the overall tensile strength, colour and other such properties, traditional sunscreens would help to negate these deleterious effects. There are products currently available on the market as hair sunscreens. Most have a two-in-one purpose acting as a fixative spray, gel or mousse designed to be put on last. How well do they stand up to actual usage especially for those who end up at the beach all day? That you will have to test for yourself.

Want me to Investigate some hair care product or practice? Send in your topic to  doc@askthehairdoc.com

About

Dr. Llorenia Muir-Green is a practising dermatologist in Jamaica. She has an avid interest in hair and scalp disorders.  She is a member of the Medical Association of Jamaica,  Dermatology Association of Jamaica and is an Associate Member of the Caribbean Dermatology Association. She was a recipient of the 2013 Fellowship in Hair and Scalp Disorders at the University of British Columbia.

 

 

 

June’s QOM

questiontext

 

Hi Doc,

I just realized that I need to find an effective shampoo for my daughter as she has been on a local swim team for the last 2 years and currently trains about 4 days a week. Can you provide information on exactly what chlorine does to the hair and the right products and treatment for “swimmers hair” ? She wears her swim cap of course, and it does help a little as her hair is never really soaked.

juneqom

Photo credit: Facebook Fan Kerry-Ann

answertext

Chlorine is no one’s friend. It has been shown mainly in wool (and similarly in hair) to cleave the thioester bonds which bind 18 MEA (a major hair integral lipid) to the cuticle. It also oxidises the disulphide bonds in the proteins of the hair thus degrading them. This results in increased friction between the hair fibres and of course increased fragility of the hair. It can decrease the melanin in the hair causing it to become lighter over time. 

As you know the swim caps are not designed to keep the hair from getting wet. There are some that keep the hair drier than others. The best thing to do is to coat the hair with conditioner or oil or a butter such as shea butter and then place the cap on. This also doubles as a deep conditioning treatment and gives little space for the water to eat away at the hair. After swimming wash hair with a good swimmer’s shampoo. These usually have Vit C or sodium thiosulphate to remove residual chlorine. They also contain EDTA to remove copper found in the algaecides present in the pool. Copper deposition is responsible for green tinge in lighter hued hairs. It doesn’t show in black hair but the copper is certainly deposited.   Follow with a conditioner. Hope that helps!